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Elite Manufacturer Furniture

Cleaning your furniture can be quite a chore, especially when you have special furniture to clean. This guide will help you to know how to clean your different types of furniture. While regular dusting will keep furniture relatively clean, different types of furniture require specialized care.

Iron furniture

An iron piece must be properly sealed by the manufacturer. To clean the piece without removing the seal, occasionally wipe with a damp cloth or mild solution of dishwashing liquid and water; spray WD-40 on moving parts only. (Touch-up paint won't adhere to surfaces covered by WD-40.) Check with the manufacturer about removing stains and scratches. Remove any rust stains immediately with a wire brush and apply touch-up paint from the manufacturer. During the winter, cover iron furniture and, ideally, store it inside.

Lacquered or polyurethane-sealed furniture

Dust as needed. Clean using a sponge dipped in warm soapy water. Rinse and wipe dry. If lacquer is peeling, the item will need stripping and relacquering. Avoid solvents and highly caustic products.

Leather furniture

Color may be applied to leather upholstery with a pigmented coating, which resists water-based spills, or with aniline dye, which is more vulnerable, meaning that stains should be treated immediately. The manufacturer's guidelines should specify how color has been applied and provide care instructions. If you're not sure, place a drop of water on a hidden location. If the drop doesn't soak in, the coating is pigmented; otherwise it is aniline dyed. To clean aniline-dyed leather, simply vacuum regularly, especially in crevices and along seams where dirt can gather. Pigmented leather should be vacuumed and wiped periodically with a soft, white cloth dampened with water. For both types of leather, once a year use saddle soap or other cleaner or polish made specifically for leather, following directions and allowing it to dry. If the leather starts to crack, apply neat's-foot oil.

Painted wood furniture

Regularly dust a delicate decoupage or faux-painted piece, or one made of distressed wood, and wipe it occasionally with a microfiber dusting cloth. If the wood has been sealed, dampen it with a sponge, and wipe dry. Apply furniture polish, if desired, then buff.

Plastic laminated furniture

Furniture having a plastic laminated finish should be dusted regularly and occasionally wiped with a damp, soft cloth.

Redwood furniture

To clean, scrub with detergent and water, rinse with a damp sponge, and dry. Redwood should be sealed occasionally, after cleaning and possibly sanding to keep out moisture and to prevent cracking. If it has grayed, a wood-rejuvenation sealer can restore color. Remove grease and soot stains with a mixture of 1 cup of TSP (trisodium phosphate) in 1 gallon of water, then rinse. Cover and store it for the winter.

Suede furniture

Suede is a very vulnerable fabric, not only because of the dyeing process, but also because the material is porous and quick to absorb stains. For routine care, gently brush suede furniture with a soft brush or textured cloth, such as a towel to remove excess dirt. Vacuum regularly, especially in crevices and along seams where dirt can get trapped. To clean a greasy stain, rub it with ground oatmeal, leave the oatmeal in place to absorb the grease, then brush it off and vacuum it. To raise the nap on a section of suede, brush it with a terry cloth towel. If suede has been flattened by spills or wear and tear, only a professional leather finisher can restore it.

Teak furniture

An oil-finished product, teak should be dusted regularly and cleaned with a mild detergent. Oil occasionally with teak oil, annually for outdoor furniture, every two or three years for indoor furniture. Rub the oil on with a clean, soft cloth, leave overnight, and buff with another clean, soft cloth to remove excess.

Other wood furniture

You can use an appropriate wood oil every six months, although some of these can make surfaces sticky and more prone to fingerprints and dust. Do not use furniture polish, which may muddy the finish. Wax will not create, increase, or even protect the mirror-like luster of a highly finished wood surface, like a piano top. Wax buildup can darken and mask the grain. Occasionally, you do need a cleaner to remove smudges, fingerprints, and grease left from cooking. Dust antique wood furniture regularly with a soft cotton cloth. Wax (if appropriate) once or twice a year. Some dealers recommend waxing at the beginning and end of the heating season. Wax unfinished surfaces so that the raw wood can absorb the wax and minimize the chance that it will crack or the veneer will lift. Don't use silicone polishes on antiques.

Cleaning different types of furniture can be tricky, although I hope these tips are a help to you.

source : Elite Manufacturer Furniture

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Indonesian Teak Furniture Manufacturers

The money you spend on your yard and garden can be quite a significant investment, not to mention your time and effort if you do it yourself. As the growing season winds down, there is more to do than simple leaf clean-up if you want to protect your yard and garden from the ravages of winter weather.

Your lawn may need attention. A late fall feeding can promote healthy growth, strengthening the grass to survive the winter. Fall is a good time to reseed areas that need it. Be sure to mulch a newly seeded area to keep birds from having easy access to the seeds, and be sure that new grass receives plenty of water.

Since many insects and plant disease organisms winter-over in the soil and in infected plant debris, it is always a good idea to rake around perennials and dispose of plant trimmings and dead plant material after a good killing frost. If I haven't had much problem with insects or disease, I like to put these final rakings into a separate compost pile and use them to start a new pile the following spring. This way they will be used in a fresh compost pile when there will be lots of heat generated rather than just sitting in a cold pile over the winter. Any diseased material gets burned.

Replace mulch around your perennials after a killing frost and after you have trimmed and raked. Cover the remaining plant base with a few inches of loose organic mulch. Never use anything that will prevent water from seeping into the ground, including large, unshredded leaves that may pack into layers and create a barrier. You also want to be sure that air circulation can take place to avoid root rot.

Roses may require special care. The use of those Styrofoam "rose cones" to cover and protect your roses can actually do more harm than good in many areas of the country. Cones can act as little greenhouses, causing the rose to begin growing too early in the spring; the too early growth often gets frozen which can retard or even kill the rose. Rose cones also do not allow air circulation.

• Trim your rose canes back to about 18-24" tall.
• Rake away the trimmings and plant debris, leaving a clean surface around your rose.
• I like to use well dried grass clippings (never green!) or straw, and wrap the rose loosely with this material; tie it in place carefully with loose loops of soft cord or fabric strips.
• Cover the bush loosely with burlap, and tie it loosely in place.

Since roses grow best in full sun in open air circulation during the summer, this type of setting can also make them susceptible to the whipping winter winds. I find that this method of wrapping provides a great deal of protection to roses and any other tender perennials.

Ceramic pots and containers that may fill with water and freeze should be moved into a protected area.

• Empty any potting soil into the compost pile and scrub out the containers with warm soapy water before storing, being sure to dry them thoroughly in the sun. Moisture that seeps into tiny cracks in the glaze or into unglazed clay pots will freeze and cause the pot to split and crumble.
• Move other ornaments and decorative items to safe storage before winter weather arrives.
• As soon as hummingbirds have completed their migration, clean and store the feeders.
• Now is the time to set up your bird feeders for the winter, and put in a supply of seed. Store your seed in a large canister or sealed tub to keep mice out.
• Cover garden furniture, or move it into storage.

Water gardens and garden ponds need some special winterizing. Your water garden was created as a small ecosystem, which you can sustain through the winter. Follow Mother Nature's rules, and you shouldn't have any problems. Trim your water plants and clean out leaves and debris with a fine mesh net, removing the sludge that has accumulated on the bottom. This is going to stir up the water, which makes it a very good time to change half of it. While you're draining half of the water, clean any shelves and scummy areas. Follow your dechlorinating routine when you refill the pond. Remember to adjust the food type and feeding schedule for your fish, since their metabolism will be shifting into low gear as soon as the water cools.

Be sure to turn off the water supply to outside faucets and spigots. If you have a sprinkler system or a garden irrigation system, these should also be drained.

Sources: Personal experience.

source : Indonesian Teak Furniture Manufacturers